After last fall’s fun Goodwill Visit from our friends in Sakai, a few of us thought, “Let’s return the favor!” It had been two years since Forest Borie broke the post-COVID ice with a flying Board visit to Sakai, and most of us had never been in Japan for hanami, the Cherry Blossom Festival.
We would make just a short stay of four days in Sakai, there were just four of us – our new friend, Chef Amy Murray of Revival Bar & Kitchen, plus Board members Kate Lucchese and Brad McCullough, and 1973 BSSE Alum Steve Farnum – and it was put together quickly, so we called it the Mini-Goodwill Mission, or, because the Goodwill was large, the Goodwill Mini-Mission.
By starting our ten-day trip in Kate’s former digs in Sendai before heading to Sakai, we were about see cherry blossoms at their height, visit Expo 2025 on its second day, and visit with our great friends in Sakai.
Chef Amy had lived in Japan before, and knew nihon-go better than the rest of us. She inspired us to be more adventurous in our eating, and to visit an urban farm. She also enjoyed being among regular people on trains, rather than taking a tour bus, and noticed that the Japanese middle class appears to be thriving! The combini (convenience stores) were a fun new development for her, to be found even in Haneda Airport: good, cheap airport food? Wow!
Amy was dazzled by the beautiful Miyagi Prefecture produce during our visit to Sendai and was touched by visits to shrines and temples, as well as the sweet hospitality we experienced with our Sakai friends. She and Brad thoroughly enjoyed their visit to Expo 2025 and recommend that everyone reading this report should get there before it closes in October.
Brad was expert in all things train, having been in Japan just last summer, and also guided us to his favorite places in Kyoto, including the beautiful Okochi Sanso Gardens overlooking the Katsura River near the bamboo forest at Arashiyama Bridge, a dash up the slope to experience sunset at Kiyomisudera, a walk through the picturesque Sannen-zaka neighborhood at dusk, a stunning nighttime visit to Kodaiji Temple, followed by dinner with a lovely Maiko.
Brad also encouraged us to make the amazing train trip up to the spectacular Hakone Open Air Museum, and while in Tokyo guided us to revisit Sengakuji, the burial temple of the 47 Ronin of “Chushingura” fame. In the Sendai area, he was able to see the famous islands of Matsushima Bay and the incredible temples and shrines, and while in Sakai he connected with two generations of his 1975 host family members and spend time with many Sakai-Berkeley Association friends. Our accommodations that Kate got for us in Sakai were in a very old, historical part of town behind a paper shop - very interesting area to walk around.
Steve, an avid photographer and antiquarian, has often visited Tokyo since 1973, but this was his first trip back to Sakai as well as to Sendai. As a result he was able to see the Buddhist mountainside retreat of Yamadera, west of Sendai, the Shinto hilltop complex at Shiogama and the stunning temple of Zuigan-ji, both north of Sendai.
On their way to visit the ancient Horyuji temple complex near Nara, Steve and his 1973 pal Kate were delightfully sidetracked by the huge, gorgeous Shinto complex of Sumiyoshi Taisha in Osaka, dating back to the second century. Photographic bliss! More fun was to be had in Tokyo as we walked the Tokaido Road near Shinagawa, lined with little temples, restaurants, and old shops. The final afternoon found us in the unspoiled Yanaka neighborhood near the University, where azaleas of every shade of pink and red were just coming into bloom.
Kate spent a day on her own, visiting new and old friends in Ishinomaki and Oshu, north of Sendai. As part of research for her recent book on Lord Date Masamune’s 1613-1620 mission to Rome, she knew that samurai from that mission had settled near Seville, Spain, rather than return to Sendai to be executed as Christians. What a thrill to sit next to a descendant of those samurai at a special dinner in their honor, in Ishinomaki! Like stepping into history!
Kate did love being in Sendai again, to hear the uguisu singing in the budding trees by the Hirose River, and to see the big cherry trees of Tsutsuji-gaoka Park all lit up with lanterns and floodlights, under a full moon. She was delighted to be in Sakai again, too, which felt homelike and was full of good friends. Our meeting with Mayor Nagafuji laid some important groundwork for big plans going forward: new photography, Boy Scout, and teacher exchanges, and a possible link between Osaka Metropolitan University and East Bay Colleges. Good times!
THOUGHTS ON THE MINI-GOODWILL VISIT, APRIL 2025
AMY MURRAY
This was my 2nd trip to Japan since living there for 3 years between 1988 and 1991. I had sucha great time on this trip because we did it at the local level and got to spend a lot of time around Japanese people. I really enjoyed taking the trains and seeing real-time Japanese life,
with real Japanese people versus being on a tour bus.
For me, there’s something about the healthy middle-class economy that makes me feel happy in Japan. The favorable exchange rate for the dollar also assisted with that. But I noticed this on my 2017 trip as well. People and money just circulate in a more tangible way, that one can witness as a traveler.
I’m really grateful we got up to Sendai. The cherry blossoms were in full bloom. Seeing them at night was an extra treat. Tasting the food at the local Izakaya’s is always my favorite. I really loved the vegetables on the first night from the local farm. Strawberries picked warm from the sun and loaded into an origami-folded newspaper basket at the Imano Farm, right in the heart of Sakai, were pretty amazing, too.
Next time I will practice my Japanese more so I can be a little more fluent in conversation with locals. It makes such a difference for both parties when communication is easy I was touched by all the temples and shrines. It was great to have knowledgeable people on our
crew and I learned a lot more about the deities and the culture. Thanks to Stephen and Kathryn.
Of course, I loved all the train rides because bullet trains are exciting and go fast and that was really fun to do all that traveling and experience such an efficient system that’s also always immaculately clean and provides fancy toilets! The 7-11s were a little bit of a fun surprise. I don’t recall them being that great in the late ‘80’s when I lived there. But I think their reputation is well deserved and their popularity and services are incredible.
The time we had in Sakai with our sister city community was so sweet. I really felt touched by how sweet and generous they were to us. Especially the first night with that sumptuous family dinner (with Kumiko Okage’s family). Seeing the older parents and their love and appreciation really touched my heart as well as the incredible food they served us! But also the handwritten name cards and all the detail details and thought that went into that dinner. Wow!
I’ve been telling the story of the meeting with Mayor (Nagafuji). That was quite the experience, that I will never forget. Kathryn, you handled his questions like a champ! I’m still thinking about the time in that room. I hope we can keep improving Japanese and American relations and will volunteer my time gladly.
Getting to visit the Expo was also a highlight. It was my first time and I love international events where everyone’s putting their foot forward and being so kind and friendly. I would go back if I could!
The evening with the Maiko was also very special. Thank God, traditional Japanese culture is staying alive. I enjoyed seeing Kyoto, but the over-tourism is not pretty or enjoyable. I loved our meal overlooking the river (at Arashiyama), eating delicious tempura and soba
noodles.
I feel all the wonderful and transformative benefits of a great trip abroad. We did so much in 10 days! It’s so good to experience another country and another culture and use that as a benefit to improve my life here in California. I look forward to being a more active part of cultural exchange and really hope I can get back to Japan more frequently.
Thanks so much, everybody for taking care of so many details and contributing to such a wonderful Japan experience! I had a fantastic time.
Amy Murray
Chef
Revival RBK
